Zagreb Christmas Market 2025: Local Tips, Food & Hotels
Zagreb might not be the first city that comes to mind when you think “Christmas magic”, but trust me, it should be. It’s festive, cozy, and not (yet) as overrun as Vienna, Budapest or Prague. And because I live here and I’ve basically done it every year, I’ve got all the real-life advice: what to skip, where to eat, and how not to spend 30€ on lukewarm mulled wine.
Here’s everything you need to know if you’re planning to visit the Zagreb Christmas Market in 2025, including where it’s happening, what (and where) to eat, and the best hotels nearby.
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When & Where is the Zagreb Christmas Market in 2025?
Advent in Zagreb doesn’t happen in one spot, it spreads. That’s part of the charm. You don’t just walk into a market square, take a few photos and call it a day. No, you wander through the city. You follow the scent of fritule and cinnamon down side streets, you stumble on a choir singing in front of a glowing tree, you find yourself in a tunnel that somehow turned into a light show. It’s all very… Zagreb.
This year, the Zagreb Christmas Market 2025 officially runs from November 29, 2025, to January 7, 2026. That’s plenty of time to visit, and honestly, I always recommend coming before mid-December if you want to enjoy it without drowning in crowds. The market usually kicks off with the lighting of the first Advent candle at Ban Jelačić Square, and from there the city slowly transforms into a winter playground.
If it’s your first time, you might expect everything to be centered around one location. It’s not. The “market” is actually made up of a dozen mini-zones scattered around the Lower Town, all within walking distance. The big ones are Zrinjevac Park (picture trees wrapped in fairy lights and live string quartets), Ban Jelačić Square (main stage, massive tree, the busiest vibe), European Square (smaller, but usually packed with locals), and King Tomislav Square, which often hosts the city’s big outdoor skating rink.
Just across the street from the rink, literally a one-minute walk, is the Esplanade Hotel, a Zagreb classic that hosts Fuliranje on its terrace. Fuliranje is a seasonal gastronomic & entertainment event held on the Oleander Terrace of Hotel Esplanade, think upscale food stalls, live music, cocktail bars, and an elegant festive ambiance.In fact, Fuliranje moved to Esplanade’s terrace some years ago, making the hotel not just a place to stay but part of the Advent experience itself.When it’s running, many visitors pop in just for Fuliranje, even if they’re not staying at the hotel.
But some of the best Advent magic lives up in the Upper Town (Gornji Grad). It’s quieter up there, with cobblestone streets, candle-lit lanterns, and the kind of wintery calm that makes you slow down. My favorite part is Strossmayerovo šetalište, a promenade that hugs the edge of the hill and gives you panoramic views over Zagreb’s rooftops, especially dreamy at dusk when the lights start to flicker on below. There are food stalls here too, usually a bit more relaxed than the ones in the center, and live music that somehow always feels more intimate. You can either walk up (which I do, for the excuse to grab rakija at the top) or take the tiny blue funicular for the full old-school experience.
And then there’s the Grič Tunnel, running between Upper and Lower Town, each year it gets turned into a glowing art installation that makes you feel like you’ve wandered into a snow globe. Weird? Definitely. Wonderful? Always. You can find the entrance here and here.
Christmas market opening hours are usually around 11 AM to 11 PM during the week, and a bit later on Fridays and Saturdays. Sundays can be quieter in the mornings but pick up fast once the sun sets. On holidays (especially December 24-26 and January 1), things slow down a bit, so don’t count on a full experience on those days.
If you’re planning your visit and want to know exactly where to go, below is a map of the top spots on Zagreb Christmas Market that I made that you can save on your Google Maps app:
Best Food at the Zagreb Christmas Market
Let’s be honest, not everything you’ll try at Advent is going to blow your mind. Some stalls are just there for the Instagram crowd, charging 9 euros for a dry burger and a Christmas napkin. But when you hit the good stuff? Magic. Warm, buttery, spice-drenched magic.
Let’s start with the basics. You cannot go to a Croatian Christmas market and not try kobasica/sausage. It’s the backbone of all Advent eating. Juicy, grilled, smoky, slapped into a soft bun with either classic mustard or a spicy ajvar twist. My go-to stall is usually wherever the line is longest and the smoke smells the best (yes, very scientific). Look out for the ones offering wild boar or deer sausage, they’re usually a step up in flavor.
Then there’s fritule, which I always say are like if mini donuts and rum cake had babies. Little deep-fried dough balls, sometimes plain, sometimes filled with Nutella, always dusted in powdered sugar. Every year I try to eat them slowly. Every year I fail. They’re addictive and dangerous, in the best way.
Source: zagreb.info
If you’re more of a sweet wine-and-dessert person, you’ll love germknedla, a fluffy steamed dumpling filled with plum jam and drowned in vanilla sauce and poppy seeds. You might need a friend to help finish it (or don’t, I’m not judging). Best enjoyed standing near a heater with cold hands and warm cheeks.
Now, if you’re looking for something less traditional, that’s where Fuliranje near the Esplanade Hotel comes in. It’s more of a gourmet food court than a classic market, we’re talking craft cocktails, bao buns, truffle fries, brisket sliders, and mulled gin. It gets crowded on weekends, but the vibe is top-notch. DJ sets, stylish people, and food that’s made to impress (and sometimes overpriced, so pace yourself).
For drinks, the kuhano vino (mulled wine) is a must, but not all are created equal. I usually sniff around before ordering. If it smells like real wine and spices, go for it. If it smells like cough syrup and sugar, walk away. Bonus points if you find a stall with rakija options, just don’t shoot it too fast, especially not the honey one (medica) after a glass of wine. Trust me.
Vegetarians, you’re not forgotten, but I won’t lie, options are slimmer. Look for stalls offering baked cheese sandwiches, grilled veggies, or something like gourmet mushroom soups. Fuliranje is your best bet here, as they usually include more diverse menus.
Prices? Expect to pay around 5-9 EUR for sausages, 4-7 EUR for desserts, and 3-5 EUR for mulled wine depending on where you are. Fuliranje is a bit more upscale, you can easily drop 15–20 EUR on a drink and a snack there.
Also, don’t fill up too fast. The market winds all through town and you will see something better 20 minutes after your first bite. I’ve learned this the hard way, every year.
Where to Stay: Best Hotels Near Zagreb Christmas Market
This is what I tell all my international friends, if you’re coming for Advent, stay in the city center close to the Zagreb Christmas Market. Trust me. Zagreb isn’t huge, but in December, with all the lights, food smells, live music, and just general festive chaos, you’ll want to walk out of your hotel and be in it. No trams, no taxis, just scarf, gloves, and you in the middle of Christmas.
Here are a few hotels I always recommend to friends, all tried, tested, and within a 10-minute walk from the best Advent spots:
Hotel Esplanade Zagreb
This is fancy and on the pricier side, but if you want the full old-school glam experience, this is it. The building looks like something from a Wes Anderson film, and the lobby bar is perfect for a pre-market glass of bubbly (or a post-market warm-up). It’s one of the most iconic hotels we have in Croatia. Plus, Fuliranje literally happens on its terrace.
You can’t get closer to the action, this one is right on Ban Jelačić Square. You’ll fall asleep to the sound of street musicians and wake up to the smell of sausages. The rooms are comfy, staff is friendly, and you’re basically sleeping in the heart of Advent. I’ve actually stayed at this one and loved their buffet breakfast!
This one’s a personal favorite if you’re into historic buildings with a modern twist. It’s set in a gorgeous old bank building just a few minutes’ walk from Ban Jelačić Square, and honestly, the lobby alone is worth seeing. High ceilings, velvet sofas, and that warm-glow lighting that makes everything feel extra cozy in winter. The rooms are elegant but not over the top, and breakfast is chef’s kiss, especially if you’re into a slow, coffee-and-croissant kind of morning before heading out.
If you’re browsing other options, just make sure you filter by “Donji Grad” or “Lower Town”, that’s where the bulk of Advent happens. You don’t want to be hiking from the suburbs when it’s 2°C and you’ve had one mulled wine too many. You can check for more options below:
When to Go (And When to Avoid Crowds)
Let me be straight with you: Zagreb in December is beautiful, but it’s not peaceful. Especially not on weekends. If you’re coming just for the Christmas Market and hoping to have quiet strolls through fairy-lit streets while sipping mulled wine in total zen, it’s not happening. At least not if you go Saturday night at 8 PM like everyone else.
If you can, come mid-week. Tuesday and Wednesday evenings are my personal favorite. The lights are all on, the music is playing, and everything’s open, but you can actually hear yourself think. You’ll still feel that festive buzz, just without needing to elbow your way to a cup of mulled wine.
Mornings are also surprisingly lovely. Most stalls open around 11 AM, so if you bundle up and head out before lunch, you’ll catch the city slowly waking up in its holiday glow. It’s calmer, perfect for photos, and you’ll get first dibs on the warmest fritule.
As for weekends, if that’s the only time you can come, just be prepared. Friday and Saturday nights, especially in December, are packed. Ban Jelačić turns into a sea of selfie sticks and slow walkers, and Fuliranje becomes a full-on party scene. If you’re into that, great. If not, go early, have a drink or two, and then escape to the Upper Town for some breathing space and better views.
Oh, and if you’re here for New Year’s Eve, stay near the center. There are free concerts on the main square, fireworks, and music until well past midnight. It’s chaotic in the best way, but again: layers. Lots of layers.
Bonus Tips for Zagreb Christmas Market
If you’re visiting Zagreb for the Christmas market, there’s a bunch of little things that can make or break your trip, and most guides skip them. Here’s what I wish more people knew before landing in the middle of Advent chaos.
Public transport is your friend, but walk when you can. Zagreb’s trams are easy to use, run often, and they’ll get you pretty much anywhere in the city. You can buy tickets at kiosks or via the MojZagreb app (Android and IOS). Just remember to validate them on board, yes, even if you’re only going one stop. That said, during Christmas Market, the center is best explored on foot. Everything’s close, and you’ll miss so much if you’re just looking out tram windows.
Toilets: yes, we need to talk about this. There are public toilets around Advent zones, and they’re better than you’d expect. Look for signs at Ban Jelačić Square and Zrinjevac, usually portable but clean-ish. Some cafes (especially chains) let you sneak in without buying anything, but I’d say be polite, grab a coffee, and warm up for a bit.
Restaurants worth your money (and time). If you’re looking for a break from street food, head to Lanac for modern Croatian comfort food or Pod Zidom for something a bit more upscale but still relaxed. If you want pizza (because honestly, after day 3 of sausages, you might), Franko’s Pizza & Bar never fails. And for brunch, I’m forever recommending Eggspress, especially if you need to recover from mulled wine overload.
Other things to do besides Advent. Even if you’re here for the market, don’t skip Zagreb’s museums, Museum of Broken Relationships is a cult favorite for a reason, and Zagreb 80s Museum is way more fun than it sounds. If the weather’s decent, walk through Maksimir Park, or ride the funicular up to Lotrščak Tower for a view over the whole city (and yes, it really does shoot a cannon every day at noon)
Day trip idea? Absolutely, go to Ljubljana or Lake Bled. If you’re here for a few days, hop on a tour and cross the border to Slovenia. Ljubljana’s Christmas market is tiny but adorable, and Lake Bled in winter is straight out of a fairytale, snow, swans, a castle on a cliff overlooking a lake with an island. It’s about 2.5 hours away, so doable as a day trip.
Below you can check out the group tour or a private one, whichever suits you best:
If you want to dive a little deeper into the city (and hear more than just Christmas music), I always recommend doing a localwalking tour of Zagreb. It’s a great way to hear the history behind those old buildings you keep photographing, learn a few fun facts you can casually drop later, and get a proper feel for the city beyond the Advent lights. Bonus, you’ll burn off a fritula or two.
Below you can check out the availability for the one I recommend:
Final Thoughts
Zagreb really knows how to do Christmas. It’s loud, cozy, chaotic, and magical all at once, and somehow it works. Whether you’re here for a weekend getaway or staying longer, Advent will pull you in with its lights, food, music, and that slightly unexplainable winter energy the city gets in December.
Pack layers, bring a bit of patience, and let Zagreb do its thing. If you want to find out about more things to do in Zagreb, you can find my guide here.
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